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We use wiring diagrams in many of our diagnostics, in case we're not careful, they can sometimes lead us to generate decisions which aren't accurate, be a catalyst for wasted diagnostic time, unnecessary parts costs for that replacing parts that are not defective, and occasionally missing a simple repair.
Today, the wiring diagram necessary to support a certain repair procedure is roofed within it or one of the links is provided to the suitable SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAM article. One example is, the wiring diagram for just a Ford EEC-IV system may be included in ENGINE PERFORMANCE and WIRING DIAGRAMS articles for Ford Motor Co. The wiring diagram for a cruise control system may very well be built into ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT section for the specific vehicle manufacturer, as well as the wiring diagram with an anti-lock brake system could possibly be built into BRAKES and WIRING DIAGRAMS for the exact manufacturer.
At my recent multi-part series on automotive electrical systems (which included primers on how electricity works and how to use a multimeter), I gave this short troubleshooting example wherein I often went a multimeter to substantiate that voltage was present. If your device—say, an electric powered motor—isn't working, first see whether voltage is reaching it as soon as the switch that powers the set up is turned on. If voltage is present within the device's positive terminal, test for continuity between the wire to the device's negative terminal and ground (first one's body of the car, so the negative battery terminal). If it passes those tests, conduct a voltage drop test to pay attention to an increased resistance failure. Should the voltage drop test shows no problem, the system is toast.