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We use wiring diagrams in many of our diagnostics, but when we are really not careful, they can occasionally bring us for making decisions aren't accurate, be a catalyst for wasted diagnostic time, unnecessary parts costs with the replacing parts that are not defective, and even just missing a fairly easy repair.
Today, the wiring diagram required to support a particular repair procedure is roofed within that article or a keyword rich link is provided to the appropriate SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAM article. For instance, the wiring diagram for your Ford EEC-IV system might be contained in ENGINE PERFORMANCE and WIRING DIAGRAMS articles for Ford Motor Co. The wiring diagram for your cruise control system might be included in ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT section for the unique vehicle manufacturer, plus the wiring diagram with an anti-lock brake system could be built into BRAKES and WIRING DIAGRAMS for the exact manufacturer.
At my recent multi-part series on automotive electrical systems (which included primers on how electricity works and how to utilize a multimeter), I gave this short troubleshooting example wherein I used a multimeter to make sure that that voltage was present. In case your device—say, a stainless steel motor—isn't working, first see whether voltage is reaching it as soon as the switch that powers the system is turned on. If voltage is present within the device's positive terminal, test for continuity between your wire for the device's negative terminal and ground (first your body of the car, and so the negative battery terminal). If it passes those tests, conduct a voltage drop test to pay attention to an increased resistance failure. When the voltage drop test shows no worries, the device is toast.